In our experience repairing failed coatings from other companies and DIY kits, nearly every case traces back to one of two things: inadequate surface prep (an acid etch instead of diamond grinding, so the coating never actually bonded) or trapped moisture pushing the coating up from underneath. Everything else β poor mixing ratios, applying in the wrong temperature, skipping a primer β is a distant third.
If a coating is lifting in sheets or large flakes, especially starting at the edges or in high-traffic tire paths, that's a classic bond failure. The coating never mechanically keyed into the concrete β it's sitting on top of a smooth or contaminated surface rather than gripping an opened pore structure.

Small, evenly distributed bubbles across the whole floor typically mean trapped moisture vapor is pushing up from the slab. Bubbles concentrated near the garage door or exterior wall can also point to hot Texas sun heating an un-cured or hot-applied coating, causing trapped air or solvent to off-gas through the surface before it fully sets.
Almost always, yes β but it requires a full strip, not a patch. We grind off the failed coating completely, address whatever caused the failure (moisture testing, deeper grind, better crack repair), and reinstall. Trying to coat over a peeling floor just buries the same problem under a new layer that will fail the same way.
Every job gets diamond-ground prep and a moisture test before we quote a system β not after something goes wrong. It's the reason we back every residential installation with a lifetime warranty.
On-site assessment, same-day quote, and a lifetime warranty on every residential installation.
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